October 25th — Toba – Fresh Fish, Ocean Side

Breakfast arrived in our room this morning. I think we may have been banished from the dining area, for ordering a Western breakfast!

After packing up, we boarded the train to Toba. Gosh, Japan’s trains are impressive—so smooth, clean and fast. We really enjoyed our ride. We were met on arrival and taken to a boat for our island adventure. We had our own giant ferry! (our boat is the one on the right)

Our first stop was quite possibly the cleanest fish market we have ever seen! We arrived just in time for the swordfish auction. Buyers wrote down their bids for each bin, the highest bidder won. It was so quick and efficient—you had to pay attention to keep up!

One of the fishermen offered us a handful of shrimp. They were alive just seconds before our guide ripped off their heads, stripped their shells, and then straight into our mouths they went.   OMG!   I tried one, and it was good, yet I had to get past the thought that it had been swimming around seconds earlier. Fresh took on a whole new meaning!

Lunch at a local family restaurant was the best fish meal Brent and I have ever had. Not so much for Taryn—she doesn’t like fish! We tried Spanish mackerel grilled, raw, battered, smoked, baked, and every version was delicious. Who knew one fish could make such a varied feast? October is peak season for the local Spanish mackerel, so our timing was perfect.

During lunch, it came out that Taryn has music on Spotify. The owners brought out a lovely sheet of paper and asked for her autograph to hang alongside the other “famous people” who had visited their restaurant. (we didn’t know any of them) So fun!

After lunch, we visited another fish auction. Each one has been graded and rated for fat content. We were told there are three auctions each day.This time, mackerel was up for sale, with the same written bids and swift decisions.

Afterwards, a fisherman showed us how he prepares his tackle and bait for mackerel, arranging the sinker and hook before threading the hook through a whole sardine. There is much more to it than simply tossing a line into the water!

We also visited the home of a well-known local artist who paints murals around town and creates artwork for the annual festival. He helped us make our own fans.

Then it was off to our new hotel, The Earth, a gorgeous, peaceful retreat with just 16 rooms overlooking the sea. Set within Ise-Shima National Park and surrounded by forest and the Pacific Ocean, it was quite a setting with endless Michelin star ratings!

Our room was stunning, complete with our own hot spring bath on the balcony. With about an hour before dinner, we happily settled in. Brent enjoyed a soak, Taryn worked on the trip video, and I caught up on the blog.

Dinner was served in our suite’s private dining room. Ten courses! The dishes just kept arriving, and as much as I wanted to try every last bite, I simply couldn’t finish it all.

Before bed, it was my turn for a soak on the balcony. Warm water, fresh sea air and nowhere else we needed to be. What a lovely way to end the day….. and they gave us all matching pajamas!!

Three people in white robes are smiling and posing in a bathroom with a large mirror. One person is brushing their teeth, while another is holding a towel and the third is taking a selfie.

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